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Archive for the ‘sweets’ Category

this is America

Last year, I spent the Fourth in Panama (yes, yes, I know that I owe you more chronicles…they are in the works, I promise).

This year, I was back on US soil and my friend Rachela and I drove out to Berkshires for the long weekend. It was a colorful weekend on so many levels, so please bear with me as I test out my new camera to capture it all. Our adventure started with berries plucked straight from the bushes. It ended with the most non-PC gentleman you could even imagine pointing us towards the nearest gas station. In between: farm animals, a swimming hole (yes, a swimming hole), the local Independence Day parade complete with the Chesterfield Chicken and the town mime, dance, fireworks and a long line of traffic, art, a lake, and the largest popovers I have ever seen.

And just when I thought I was a little out of my comfort zone, the Israeli photographer we shared breakfast with reminded me that “this is America.”

Remember those black raspberries? Did I tell you they were picked from the bushes behind our B&B? Or that when we met the proprietor his hands were stained from his collection? Or that they starred in the muffins that made up part of our multi-course breakfast? Or that I snagged the recipe to share with you? Yes, I may be slowing down on the recipe front, but this one is well worth the wait.

Black Raspberry Muffins

Generously shared by Denise at Seven Hearths. Makes 12 muffins. You will eat them all.

- 2 C flour

- 1 T baking powder

- 1/2 t salt

- 2/3 C sugar

- 1 egg, beaten

- 1/3 C sweet butter, melted

- 1/2 C milk, warm

- 1/2 C sour cream

- 1 1/2+ C black raspberries

Pre-heat oven to 400.

Mix. Mix all dry ingredients. Add remaining ingredients except fruit and stir until just blended. DO NOT OVERSTIR. Fold fruit in lightly.

Bake. Scoop batter in lined or greased muffin tins. Bake approximately 20 minutes until toothpick comes out clean. Cool in pan on wire rack for 7-10 minutes and then remove.

Variation: you can substitute 1 1/2 C other fruit, but adjust the sugar (and other ingredients) accordingly:

Blackberry: 1 C sugar
Raspberry: 2/3 C sugar
Blueberry: 1/2 C sugar, 2 t lemon juice, 1 t grated lemon rind
Bing Cherry:  2/3 C sugar, 2 t grated lemon peel
Nectarine: 1/2 C sugar
Peach: 1/2 C sugar, 1 t vanilla

And it’s been a while since I shared some dance videos with you, so here are excerpts from the performance we saw.

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Shavuot just ended. Last year, in the spirit of the dairy tradition of this holiday, I made a cheese tart. In addition, I taught a dance/movement class for a tikkun leyl Shavout – an all-night learning session to commemorate the giving and receiving the torah. A dance class as part of Jewish learning?, you might ask. Well, it’s just one of my things and the cooking class I had planned didn’t work out.

Having a pantry filled with almonds — natural, sliced, slivered, roasted and salted, and crushed into meal — and a serious craving for all things amandine, I flipped through my cookbooks and found Dorie Greenspan‘s Swedish Visiting Cake. I’ve heard it described as tasting like a large almond macaroon. Yes, I meant to say macaroon rather than macaron — the consistency is somewhere between a cookie and a cake (at least the way I made it), similar to a chewy macaroon (and not the coconut kind). Anyway, it seemed worth a shot and the name alone made it sound like a good gift to offer friends.

I didn’t stay up learning all night, so I managed to bake the cake in the morning. The cake itself barely rose at all – not surprising as the only leavening agent was eggs. As I set it to cool, I decided to read a little bit in bed, and, you guessed it — fell asleep. Lucky that I waited to take the cake out of the oven before cozying up under my duvet as the rain pelted outside. 2 hours later and I had missed lunch. Despite having my cake, I just couldn’t bear to be that fashionably late.

So, I did what any of you would do – I cut a slice and ate it myself. Not bad, but it would have been nicer to share.

Swedish Visiting Cake (variation)

adapted from Dorie Greenspan.

The batter for this cake is very thick. I lost some of the almond flavor when I realized that I didn’t have almond extract and substituted orange blossom water which complements almonds. I think next time I might replace some of the flour with almond meal. Even though I neglected to share this with my barbecuing friends, I did treat a visiting friend to a slice with some red wine.

- 1/2 C butter or margarine

- 1 C sugar

- zest of 1 lemon

- 2 eggs

- 1/4 t salt

- 1 t orange blossom water

- 1 C flour

- 1/4 C sliced almonds

Preheat oven to 350°.

Melt butter/margarine.

Make batter. Mix sugar and zest until sugar is fragrant and moistened by the oils in the zest. Beat in eggs one at a time along with orange blossom water. Then, use a spatula to fold in the flour. Finally, add the melted butter/margarine and incorporate into the batter.

Bake cake. Grease and sugar a springform pan and pour the batter in. Since it is so thick, you’ll need to smooth it out so it spreads evenly. Sprinkle sliced almonds and a little extra sugar on top. Place pan on a cookie sheet (the original recipe calls for baking the cake in a skillet, so the sheet adds a bit of extra thickness). Bake 25-30 minutes (I would err on the side of less time).

Cool and serve.

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When I was in high school (yes, that all-girls’ school with the honor code), one of my teachers told us never to raise a hand and start a question or a comment with an apology. But I’m going to break that rule just this once, and apologize for having neglected you quite a bit of late. Here’s the scoop. I started a new job. I get home and flop on my sofa. I eat a whole head of roasted broccoli for dinner. Or a bowl of cereal. Or maybe a salad. Then fall asleep and wake up only to start all over again.

About a month ago, I went to a 2 1/2 hour dance class (!) on a Sunday morning and ended up in the ER with a torn meniscus. Not that I knew that at the time. All I knew at that point was that I wasn’t going to make it to the Idan Raichel concert that evening. Fast forward past weeks on end taking taxis to work every day (that is, when I was able to get to work rather than working from home), limping and limping and limping some more, trying out knee brace after knee brace (the one the ER gave me kept falling off) to Good Friday when I was in the OR for arthroscopic knee repaired.

Lucky for me, some friends took me in for the next few days — practically the entire Chol Ha’moed (the intermediate days of Passover), making sure I was well-fed (recipes to follow, don’t you worry) and -rested and didn’t need to worry about anything other than sitting in the sun that graced us over the weekend.

Now that Passover is behind us, every time I eat bread, I feel a little jolt of happiness that I can eat whatever I want. And each day as I can walk a little farther and straighten and bend my knee just a little bit more, I remember how good it feels to be healthy. It’s one of those things that I rarely think about until a little bit is taken away from me.

So, with this in mind, and now that I can stand long enough to be in kitchen, I figured I’d bake you an apology cake.

Almond Yogurt Cake

Adapted from Chocolate and Zucchini’s Gateau au Yaourt and Raspberry Yogurt Cake. I upped the almond content using both ground almonds and almond oil. This cake is not too sweet and the taste of the orange flower water (which I love with almonds) is present without being overpowering.

- 1 C lowfat plain yogurt

- 1 C sugar

- 2 eggs

- 1/3 C vegetable oil (or 1/2 vegetable oil, 1/2 almond oil for a really almond-y flavor)

- 1 t orange flower water

- 1 2/3 C sifted flour

- 1/3 C finely ground almonds

- 1 1/2 t baking powder

- 1/2 t baking soda

Preheat oven to 350°

Mix. Mix together the yogurt, sugar, eggs, oil(s), and orange flower water. Add flour, ground almonds, baking powder, and baking soda.

Bake. Slip greased pan (I used an 8X12 glass rectangle) into oven and bake for ~45 minutes.

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Wow, the month of March has snuck up on me. Between starting a new job and the less-than-ideal weather, time has flown and it’s hard to believe that spring is (theoretically) almost upon us. Like last year, I want to share with you some of the recent recipes on my blog that are Passover friendly. Here goes…

Main Courses:

- Moroccan brisket with olives and preserved lemons (just make it without couscous)- Anna Sortun’s Spoon Lamb

- Tomato and Onion Braised Brisket- Pomegranate Chicken

Soups:

- Onion soup – make it without the bread (try matzah instead), with or without cheese

Sides and Salads:

- Asparagus avocado salad

- Mediterranean quinoa salad

- Eggplant spread with tomatoes (it looks gross, but tastes great)

- Marinated zucchini

- Spinach salad with beets and grapefruit

- Kibbutz herb salad

- Vic’s salad- Feta watermelon salad

- Yellow (or green) beans with hazelnuts – just use whatever oil you have if you can’t find hazelnut

- Quinoa with persimmon, pomegranate, and walnuts – use the dressing and try other available fruits

Desserts:

- Grapefruit mint sorbet

- Sangria sorbet

- Amaretti (almond) cookies; Gianduia (chocolate hazelnut) cookies

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to my sister-mother

chocolate almond biscotti

A comfort when you are ill, no matter what ails you.

A friendly voice on the phone.

A ready invitation for dinner.

A hug and a smile just when you need it.

Judy is all of this and more. And she asks for nothing in return.

But, she doesn’t turn down offers of dessert. Judy and I share an affinity for not-too-sweet after-dinner treats. And she is always ready to try any dish that emerges from my kitchen. When she and her husband Bruce lived just a few short stairs from me, I was always bringing down tastes of my creations — a white bean dip, chatzilim (eggplant), and quinoa – for an honest opinion. The sweet ones we often shared around a cup of tea or coffee. They critiqued some of my less successful experiments – a challah that fermented and two attempts at apple cake before I came up with this one that still does not meet Judy’s discerning palate.

Judy’s recent favorites are a nearly flourless chocolate cake and chocolate almond biscotti. I made these biscotti last week and brought over a tin for dessert after she and Bruce shared a pot of chicken soup to keep out the cold. A few days later, Judy returned the empty tin and requested a refill.

in the sun

Chocolate Almond Biscotti

Adapted from Alice Medrich’s Chocolate and the Art of Low-Fat Desserts. These biscotti are very crispy without being hard. The recipe suggests that they are best at least 2 days after baking, but I find them pretty good immediately after baking and I did not find an appreciable change in their texture. The use of chocolate crumbs made from chocolate chip gives them a double chocolate flavor with small bursts of chocolate.

Makes over 3 dozen cookies.

- 3/4 C sliced blanched almonds

- 1 3/4 C all-purpose flour (divided)

- 1/2 C chocolate chips

- 1/2 C unsweetened cocoa

- 1 t baking soda

- 1/4 t salt

- 3 eggs

- 1 C sugar

- 1 t vanilla extract

Position racks in lower and upper third of oven and preheat to 350°F.

Toast nuts. Toast almonds on baking sheet until golden – start checking after 8 minutes to avoid burning. When you can smell the nuts, they are generally ready.

Reduce oven to 300°F.

Make chocolate crumbs. In a food processor or blender, chop chocolate chips with up to 1/2 C flour to make chocolate crumbs. The addition of flour prevents the chocolate from becoming a big chocolate blob.

Mix dough. Beat the eggs with the sugar and vanilla until well combined. Sift in the remaining flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir in this flour mixture, and then stir in the chocolate crumbs and toasted almonds. The dough will be very thick and sticky.

First baking. Using a spatula and floured hands, shape dough into long skinny loaves – either 3 12-inch loaves or 2 16- to 18-inch loaves onto a parchment- or Silpat-lined baking sheet. Make sure to leave 2.5 inches between loaves. Bake for 45 minutes on the lower rack. Remove from oven and cool on the pan.

Slice loaves. Carefully peel loaves from parchment or Silpat, and slice on a diagonal (45° angle) into 1/2 inch slices.

Second baking. Bake again at 300°F for another 20-25 minutes. The easiest way to bake is to place sliced biscotti directly on the oven rack. Alternatively, you can place biscotti on two baking sheets. After 5-6 minutes, rotate the pans from top to bottom and front to back. After another 5-6 minutes, flip all the biscotti over. Then, after another 5-6 minutes, rotate pans again. As you might guess, I prefer the direct on rack method.

Storage. Cool biscotti completely on racks. Biscotti may be stored in an airtight tin for several weeks at room temperature.

in the tin

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easy does it

If there is a complicated way to do something and an easy way, I will inevitably choose the former.

But I was recently reminded of the beauty in keeping things simple. This time of year, the week between Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur, is a time of self-reflection — not a bad time to review this lesson that holds both in the kitchen and out.

Having only cooked for Rosh Hashana once before, I received a lot of help from my family in  preparing to share the 2 days of holidays with over a dozen guests: we divided and conquered. I planned the overambitious menus (only parts of which ever came to fruition). My parents brought a case of wine up from Maryland. My dad and sister did most of the food shopping. My mom helped with much of the food prep, acting as sous chef in my kitchen.

Even with all those helping hands, I was nonetheless overjoyed to discover a cake that nearly bakes itself.

Not Derby Pie touts the base recipe as “The Easiest Cake Ever” and Rivka pictured it with ripe, juicy pears. I planned to add in some apples to the pears in honor of Rosh Hashana and to make it reminiscent of a gâteau pomme poire that I have been trying to recreate since I did a high school student exchange in the Loire valley followed by the Vendée in the northwest of France. However, given that my sister did the grocery shopping and doesn’t like pears, I ended up with just an apple cake. Not that this is just any apple cake.

The high egg content causes the cake to rise up as the heavier fruit sinks slightly. A light sprinkling of raw demerara sugar creates a crackly crunchy crust that caramelizes slightly at the edges and where the fruit juices pool.

corner close-up

Easy Apple Cake

Adapted from Not Derby Pie’s “Easiest Cake Ever” which is recommended for ripe, juicy fruits such as pears, stone fruits, or berries. Given that I was using apples that were not particularly juicy, I decided to first saute them in some margarine and sugar, giving them a slight juicy caramelization as I would for a tarte tatin.

Serves 8-10 and there will be no leftovers. This is probably great with ice cream, but this cake needs no accoutrement.

For apples:

4 apples – I used a variety (1 each of Gala, Fuji, Granny Smith, and Crispin)

lemon juice to prevent apples from browning as you cut

2 T margarine (or butter if you are making dairy)

1-2 T sugar (or to taste)

For cake batter:

1 C flour

3/4 C sugar

2 eggs

1/2 C canola oil

1 t baking powder

1 t vanilla

2-3 T demerara sugar (optional)

Preheat oven to 350º F. Grease and flour a 9-inch cake pan, springform or square pan. (If you want to plate this, use a springform; otherwise, just serve it out of the pan.)

Peel and core the apples, then cut into ~12 slices. Sprinkle with lemon juice (you don’t need much – maybe a tablespoon or so for 4 apples) while the others are being sliced to prevent browning.

Heat margarine in pan over low heat and add apples and 1-2 T white sugar. Stir for ~10-15 minutes until apples soften. Some of the liquid will soak into the apples, but if too much of it starts to evaporate, then turn the heat down.

sauteed apples

While the apples are on the stove top, mix together the remaining ingredients (except for the demerara sugar) — flour, sugar (the 3/4 C), eggs, oil, baking powder, and vanilla. No mixer is required – you can just mix everything by hand even though the batter is quite thick.

Add half the warm apples (juices and all) to the batter and mix. Then pour into the prepared pan and spread the batter evenly with a spatula. Arrange the remaining apple slices on the top of the batter as decoratively as possible (though even a mishmash will look nice).

artful (?) arranging

for the record - I only used tongs because we were having guests that I had never met ... normally I'd just use my fingers!

Sprinkle the cake with demerara sugar if you’d like and bake for 1 hour.

sugar...

Let cool before attempting to remove from the pan. It can be a bit difficult to plate due to the stickiness of the fruit (I did a bit of clever patching that you can see close-up below).

a crack in the armor

I was a bit overzealous in the number of apples that I asked my mom to peel, and we had so many left over that in 5 minutes flat, I whipped up a second batch of batter and made another cake.

second apple cake

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bistro chocolate cake

Bistro Chocolate Cake

As a tried and true kosher carnivore (well, I guess, officially an omnivore), I am always seeking out good parve (non-dairy) desserts. I often substitute margarine for butter, soy milk for regular, but am always excited when I find desserts that are naturally parve, like those that use oil as their shortening As a fan of all things French and searching for a chocolate cake to make for the housewarming of my “sister mother” Judy, the self proclaimed cupcake queen and sweets fan, and her foodie but savory-only baker husband, Bruce,  I was thrilled to find this gateau au chocolat in my bistro cookbook.

Sharon O’Connor’s Bistro: Favorite Parisian Bistro Recipes, chooses a bistro in each arrondissement and shares some of the chef’s signature dishes. I made the cake because I loved the recipe. You might recall I have a little love affair with proper bistros. Proper bistros. And this delightful book chats a bit about each bistro and the environs in which it was raised in the “neighborhood walk” section preceding the recipes:

“The streets of Au Pied de Fouet’s seventh-arrondissement neighborhood are lined with foreign embassies and French ministries…. The Musée d’Orsay is a very pleasant fifteen-or twenty-minute walk from au Pied de Fouet. The art museum was originally a train station, built in the late 1800s to serve southwestern France. Orsay houses a major collection of late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century art, including many famous Impressionist works. The museum which still retains the open, airy feel of the belle-epoque train stations, is extremely popular with Parisians, as well as art lovers from all over the world.”

My affinity for grandiose train stations probably started as early as my teens when I used to travel from DC to Philadelphia to visit my grandmother. I loved the large open-ness of 30th Street Station where Bubbie would always meet me by the statue on the East side of the station. Years later, I toured Western Europe with a Eurail pass and an over-stuffed backpack on wobbly wheels. In my entryway, I have a print of a photo on exhibit at the Musée d’Orsay, especially à propos at this train station-turned-museum.

L. Mercier - Accident gare de l'Ouest le 22 octobre 1895

Luckily this cake is fairly simple, and pardon the cliché, but no matter how many mistakes I made along the way, my gâteau was no train wreck. Yes, yes, groan all you want. That was really bad!

Bistro Chocolate Cake (Gâteau au Chocolat)

Adapted from Sharon O’Connor’s Bistro: Favorite Parisian Bistro Recipes. This is a pretty forgiving recipe (just my kind) for a nearly flour-less chocolate cake. I made a few substitutions and didn’t follow the

The book says this serves 8, but I can’t believe 8 Frenchies would gobble this cake up It’s not overly sweet but it quite rich. I believe it serves closer to 10-12.

- 7 oz bittersweet chocolate (chopped) – I didn’t have bittersweet, so I used a mix of unsweetened and semisweet

- 6 eggs, separated

- 1/3 C sugar

- 1/3 C unbleached all-purpose flour

- 1 C ground blanched almonds

- 1/4 t salt

- 1/3 C vegetable oil

- 2 t baking powder

- 1 t baking soda

- 8 oz sweet chocolate, chopped (optional)

Preheat oven to 300˚F. Grease the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan.

Prepare the chocolate. In a double boiler (I use a small metal bowl) over barely simmering water (making sure not to let the bottom of the bowl hit the water nor any steam escape or the chocolate will seize), melt the bittersweet chocolate; remove from heat and set aside, allowing to cool to room temperature (don’t put in fridge).

Beat the egg whites. Using an electric mixer, beat the 6 egg whites until stiff, glossy peaks form. I cheated a little bit and added a pinch of cream of tartar to aid in the process when my eggs weren’t beating so nicely. If you are dependent on your mixer for everything, carefully transfer the whites to another bowl so you can use your mixer again to cream the remaining ingredients.

Prepare the almonds. Since I didn’t have any almond meal or pre-ground almonds, I made my own. Place a little over a cup of blanched almond slices into a food processor (I used my mini one) and pulse until you form a fine powder. You will probably need to add some of the ½ C sugar to prevent the almonds from forming almond butter.

Mix everything else together. In a medium bowl, beat the remaining sugar and egg yolks together until thick and pale (by hand, or in your mixer…). Stir in the flour, ground almonds, salt, oil, baking powder, and baking soda, and beat until thoroughly blended. Pour in the warm melted chocolate and stir until mixed. Stir on one-fourth of the egg whites. Gently fold in the remaining whites until thoroughly blended.

Bake. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake in the preheated oven for 40-45 minutes (I found 40 minutes to be perfect), or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.

The original recipe calls for enrobing the cake in sweet chocolate. I thought this would be too rich. I served it plain and with a fruit salad, but I think it would be perfect with a dallop of spiked whipped cream (or some sort of whipped parve substitute).

Judy loved the cake so much that she took a quarter of the cake for herself and came to my apartment and made a copy of the recipe before I had a chance to post it.

The cakes freezes pretty nicely.

Half the cake, thawing

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onion and honey

powdered sugar

Bad days come and go. Some seem to last forever. Yesterday was one of those days. Absolutely interminable. I was waiting. For a package that never arrived. Well, delivery was attempted, apparently. But the delivery guy never buzzed up to my apartment. And the delivery report said “The receiver was unavailable to sign on the 1st delivery attempt.” I was sitting by my phone. All day. I missed dance class. Waiting. I felt like I was trapped in my own home.

When I called my friend Noam (half of the Shakespeare on the Common picnic planning duo) in the evening, he told me about an Israeli phrase adopted from the Arabic proverb:  יום אסל ,יום בצל transliterated from Hebrew as yom asal, yom batsal (I believe the transliteration from Arabic is a bit closer to yawm asal, yawm bazal). It means “one day honey, one day onion.” While the phrase is applied is various different settings with nuanced meanings, in this context, Noam told me to just chalk up the day as an onion day, and turn the next day into a honey day.

So, with him on the phone, I uncorked a 10-year old Haut-Médoc that I had been saving for a special occasion, poured myself a glass, and decided to ride out the evening.

Haut-medoc

To start the honey flowing, along with some smooth sips of left bank Bordeaux, I contemplated baking a chocolate cake, but then remembered a more literal idea. A favorite petit goût, a little morsel of goodness, neither cookie nor cake — or possibly both — for which I have yet to find the perfect recipe, but that is often flavored with honey. I have the special pans (though I will soon be trading in my silicone for old-fashioned metal), and would be waiting at home once again for re-delivery the next day. And the batter for these little cookie cakes is best chilled overnight, all but guaranteeing that my wine-induced slumber would yield a honey-full tomorrow.

- 014

When I woke up this morning, my wine glass sat unwashed on the counter, the batter chilled in the fridge, the pan ready to be prepped and filled, and  after a quick pre-heat and about ten minutes in the oven, my sweet sweet breakfast was ready.

And the day just flowed from there.

Honey Madeleines

bowl of madeleines


I love madeleines with their little scallop shape and their big honey taste (and, of course, they’re French!). On a search for olive oil cakes, I recently came across this discussion and recipes for a Quartet of Olive Oil Sweets and tucked it away for the right time. I had found a similar recipe in the August 2009 Gourmet, but I can’t seem to link to it online, and it calls for 1.5 C of arbequina olive oil. Honestly, I just can’t part with this much of my prized liquid gold. So I adapted Mike Ahmadi‘s recipe for olive oil citrus madeleines by doubling the honey (um, yeah, wasn’t that the point?), cutting out the citrus (I know, that sort of kills the whole citrus madeleine thing), and using orange blossom water instead of vanilla, again doubling the quantity to pull out the sweetness. Compared to other madeleines that I’ve made, these were a bit cakey — I prefer them slightly more dense (more cookie-like?).

The only special equipment you need for madeleines is the molds to get the scallop shape. I have a single silicone tray that somehow manages to NOT be non-stick. I think it’s just time to invest in the old-school metal ones. I hear you can get some non-stick ones which might be the way I go. Sorry I can’t make any better recommendations here. I did some experimentation and the best strategy I came up with for getting the madeleines out of my mediocre silicone tray was to oil and lightly flour the molds.

NOTE: this recipe requires an overnight chilling. I warned you. Don’t come crying to me if you start making the recipe and get half-way through, wanting to put them in the oven and see the overnight chilling recommendation. You can probably get away with a few hours, but madeleines hold their shape best when the batter is cold. Ideally, you want them to get a little hump on their back. I have seen some recipes even suggest putting the molds in the freezer before and/or after filling with batter. I didn’t bother experimenting with this since I was using silicone.

Makes 2 dozen+ madeleines.

- 3 large eggs

- 1 pinch kosher salt

- 2 T honey – I used Granja San Francisco Blossom Honey from Spain (I bought mine at Fairway in NY, but it is also available at Cardullo’s in Cambridge, MA — see Resources page)

- 2/3 C granulated sugar

- 6 T olive oil (I used Unió brand, discussed here)

- 1 teaspoon orange blossom water

- 1 C  all-purpose flour

- 1 t baking powder

Beat eggs, salt, honey, and sugar with whisk attachment on mixer until very light and fluffy – the mixture approximately doubled in size.

With the mixer still running, slowly pour the olive oil into egg mixture; then add the orange blossom water.

Turn off the mixer and sift the flour and making powder into the batter, then gently mix in until just blended in.

Cover bowl and refrigerate the mixture overnight. (A few hours is probably OK.)

The next day, preheat oven to 400º F.

Oil and lightly flour madeleine molds and then fill ~ 3/4 full with the batter. Bake for a total of 9-10 minutes, turning the pan 180 degrees after the first 5 minutes. taking the madeleines out when the edges are golden brown. I personally prefer mine a little darker.

Remove from the oven and let cool in the pans for approximately 5 minutes, then remove from the pans.

fresh from the oven

Clean the pans and repeat the process until you are out of batter.

I love eating the madeleines warm as is, but if you can wait and will serve them cooled, especially if they’ve stuck to your not-so-non-stick pan and you’re willing to share, give them a simple dusting of powdered sugar to cover up any less-than-pretty spots.

a simple dusting

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confession

I went to a high school with an honor code. Our teachers would leave the room during exams, trusting that since we had signed the honor code, there would be “no lying, stealing, cheating, or plagiarism.” We sometimes even chatted with one another during exams, knowing that whatever topics we discussed would not be related to the test we were taking.

the last slice

So, I come to you today, my head hung low, to confess that I sometimes — no I often — cheat in the kitchen. I use pre-minced garlic. I use margarine a lot (for parve desserts). My biggest shortcut though is that I sometimes use lemon juice instead of fresh lemons.  Even when a recipe has this citrus component as its main ingredient. A little squirt in a stir-fry when a lemon is not to be found– not such a big deal. But, I have done it for lemon bars. Yes, lemon bars. Where the main flavoring is lemon.

And, here I present to you my latest and greatest cheat – a bastardization of a beautiful recipe for lemon mascarpone blondies with a few modifications, including the use of bottled lemon juice in lieu of freshly squeezed lemons and their zest. But, I have to tell you, this must be one kick-ass recipe because despite my cheating, it rocked.

This lemon mascarpone “tart” tastes like a lemon bar whose lemony top and cookie bottom merge into one. It is rich and decadent without being overly sweet. That being said, it was not overly citrusy either — perhaps the downside to cheating with jarred lemon juice. I imagine one could play up the tart part of it a bit more by making a chocolate crust of sorts, even using a thin layer of brownie base if you like the combination of lemon, made rich with mascarpone, and chocolate.

Cheating Lemon Mascarpone Tart

cooling, pulling away from the pan

I found this wonderful recipe for Lemon Mascarpone Blondies developed by Garret McCord and posted on Simply Recipes. Rather than using lemons, I was going to use limes because I had brought back some key limes from my recent trip to Miami, but having made some “caiparina mojitos” with them at a picnic last week, I didn’t think I could bear to juice the 2 dozen I would probably need to get 2 T of juice. But I did have some Goya lemon juice in my fridge. I didn’t have an 8X8 pan to bake the blondies in, but my 10-inch solid bottom tart pan worked nicely and made the blondies look fancy though a bit flat.

I made the batter by hand because my Kitchen Aid is parve, and this is very easy to make the “old-fashioned way.” It took less than 15 minutes to make the batter. This could be a great holiday recipe for those who are observant during the upcoming Rosh Hashanah.

Serves 8-10 and best eaten chilled.

- 1/2 C butter, melted
- 1 cup of tightly packed dark brown sugar
- 1 egg, lightly beaten
- 1/4 t vanilla
- 8 ounces mascarpone cheese (I used Vermont Butter & Cheese brand – Kof-K)
- 2 T Lemon juice (I used Goya brand lemon juice in a bottle; original recipe calls for 2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice)
- 2 1/2 t lemon zest (I left this out)
- 1/2 t baking powder
- 1/8 t of baking soda
- Pinch salt (omit if using salted butter)
- 1 C all-purpose flour

Bring mascarpone to room temperature for ~15 minutes while preparing other ingredients so it will be easier to work with later on.

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Grease and lightly flour pan (8X8 pan or 10-inch solid bottom tart pan).

Melt butter in saucepan or microwave. As someone who often substitutes margarine, I have to tell you that the smell of the melting butter was absolutely heavenly. I might be converted to a more frequent butter user.

Pour melted butter into large mixing bowl and mix in sugar with whisk. Then add egg and vanilla and continue to whisk. Add mascarpone, juice (and zest if using) and switch to a spatula for mixing. Finally add in baking powder, baking soda, salt, and flour, continuing to use spatula for final mixing.

When all ingredients are incorporated, the batter will be pretty pourable. Pour into prepared pan and spread evenly.

Bake in pre-heated oven for 20-30 minutes until toothpick inserted comes out clean and without clinging crumbs, and the blondies start to pull away from the edge of the pan. In my oven, this took a full 30 minutes even though my tart was a bit thinner than an 8X8 square would be.

I suggest chilling before serving. It makes the tart easier to slice, less crumbly, and more dense.

(I tried to candy a few thin lime slices to decorate the top, but unfortunately they didn’t taste very good (thought they looked pretty). This wasn’t worth the effort and I wouldn’t do it next time.)

I had to take a small taste

I had to take a small taste before bringing to my friends

slice from above

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Modern conveniences make our lives easier, no doubt. I remember when we got our first car phone. It actually had to be attached TO the car. And when my dad went out grocery shopping and my mom forgot to put something on the list, she could call to remind him not to forget the OJ. What a revolution. I remember remarking, “what did we do before car phones???” Now, I travel almost everywhere with a cell phone, a BlackBerry (my “BB”), my tiny Nikon digital camera, an iPod, and if I’m going somewhere for more than 3 days, my computer – because I never know when there might be a blogortunity.

The same holds true for me in the kitchen. I never thought I needed a mixer, but now I can barely fathom making a cake without mine. (And I recall when a newly smug married entered my apartment and exclaimed, “Zahavah, you have a Kitchen Aid, you don’t need to get married!”…I just looked at her husband and could not utter the pitying comment that I would not come up with until hours later.) Even in my 6X6 Manhattan kitchen (and now in a larger, newer Boston abode), my “work space” was somewhat cluttered with a mini food processor, blender and multiple immersion blenders, crepe maker, waffle iron, and George Foreman grill, and don’t forget the 3 sets of pots and pans. Yes… in addition to basari (meat) and chalavi (dairy), I have a small collection of parve (neutral) batterie de sine (Ok, it’s not really batterie de cuisine, but after finishing Julia Child’s My Life in France this weekend and visiting The Breakers and The Elms in Newport, RI last week, I have decided to adopt this terminology. And, anyway, a girl can dream!)

outside the Elks, reminded me of Rimini (unable to capture the extensive batterie de cuisine inside)

Outside the Elms. The juxtaposition of stone and sea reminded me of Rimini (unable to capture the extensive copper batterie de cuisine inside the massive kitchen)

But every once in a while, it’s refreshing to leave a lot of the fancy things behind and keep things (relatively) simple.

This weekend, I visited the condo in Sunny Isles, Florida that my snowbird grandparents (whom you met briefly; I have referred to my grandmother as “Grapefruit Bubbie” because we always had a grapefruit half waiting on each plate before dinner) left to my mother after their passing, and that my parents just finished gutting and renovating. While this was normally our winter get-away, my sister and I joined my parents to toast our new southern abode this past weekend.

My job was to start to outfit the kitchen and my sister, the architect, is in charge of any design decisions that have yet to be made.

a simple lunch as we take a break from unpacking and escape the August sun at high noon

a simple lunch as we take a break from unpacking and escape the August sun at high noon

Since no one will be living here full-time, we’re really trying to keep things pretty basic. We’ve thrown out a lot of things,  but have kept some stuff worth saving. Starting from the beginning means I’m out buying measuring cups, cookie sheets, and salt (and parchment paper and Callebaut chocolate…maybe you see where this is going…) and making do with some oldies but goodies, like Teflon pots and pans that were probably bought when Teflon was a novelty and are still in their original boxes.

Being here in the heat of August that does not let out even in the evenings means that I am barely in the mood to cook. We do a lot of take-out from the local kosher markets – my favorite is Sarah’s Tent in the Waterways.

But there are just a few things that no one can make for me, and that I made with the most basic of equipment. Fresh iced tea from tea bags seeped in a Corning Ware percolator, voided of its percolating bits. Lemon balm-infused simple syrup to sweeten said iced-tea. Salad with marinated zucchini and other veggies, some of which, like the lemon balm, are from my CSA and I could not bear to leave to languish in my fridge.

one last pot of fresh iced tea, seeping at 6 am before I caught my flight (excuse the flash)

making an early morning pot of fresh iced tea for the day (excuse the flash)

lemon balm-infused simple syrup

lemon balm-infused simple syrup

And of course, a family favorite – chocolate chunk cookies (with only chocolate chunks, no nuts). I meant to bring down a jar of almond butter, but in my rush to catch my flight, I grabbed peanut butter instead. I hoped the recipe would be pretty adaptable and my father had been talking about these cookies for over a week (I made them for  him for father’s day and he and my mother have been asking for another batch since then.) For the past few days, in between dealing with plumbing problems, last minute meetings with the contractor, and the-ever-important few hours in the late afternoon sun, I’ve been amassing ingredients in the store. After lunch today, I grabbed a few old school bowls, measured out my dry ingredients, let the margarine get to room temperature, measured out the peanut butter, and chopped up the Callebaut chocolate with a Ginsu knife (remember those? Yup, Bubbie had one!).

pouring the PB

The first step: “Using electric mixer, beat butter/margarine, almond butter, and both sugars in large bowl until light and fluffy.”  Hmm, I have never done this without a mixer. Ok…well, back to good old-fashioned elbow grease. I grabbed a spatula and set to work, first just beating together the butters. So far so good. A nice even creamy mix. OK, I was ready to add in the sugar. And I set to work with the same intensity as before.

Crack.

The first kitchen casualty.

kitchen casualty

Without missing a beat (well, I did snap a few photos), I pulled a big spoon from the drawer and finished up the dough, adding in the chocolate chunks and then throwing the dough in the fridge to cool before running out to the pool for a few late afternoon rays.

if you look real close, you can see the reflection of my flip flop in the bowl

if you look real close, you can see the reflection of my flip flop in the bowl

After returning from the pool where I finally caught up on my New Yorkers (funniest line in the 8/3 issue: “You know who looks fabulous in a bathing suit? A mannequin. Also, a hanger.”), my sister arrived, we grabbed a quick dinner and then toasted our new apartment with some sparkling wine and peanut butter cookies.

In my opinion, they are not as good as the original recipe, too crispy where the others have the perfect chewy bite,  but my family seemed to like them, because when I woke up this morning for my early flight home, there seem to have been a few cookie monsters in the middle of the night.

the cookie monsters attacked overnight

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